Fast becoming the most favored material in body piercing jewelry, titanium is challenging surgical stainless steel for its’ biocompatibility, its wide array of brilliant colors, and its strength in spite of its lightness in weight.  But just because the jewelry is deemed to be titanium, this doesn’t necessarily mean it is good enough to be internally-worn as body piercing jewelry.  If you take nothing else from this article, remember this:  although many choose titanium for its hypoallergenic nature, it is important to realize that not all titanium actually is hypoallergenic.  There are as many grades of titanium as there are colors, and some low-grades are being imported from Far East manufacturers and sold here in western markets by ignorant retailers, and even some piercers. 

 

Rule #1 - If you take nothing else from this article, remember this: not all titanium and its alloys are suitable for the invasive nature of body jewelry applications.  Ask questions!  Ask what grade the titanium is.  If the seller or piercer doesn’t know the answer, run, don’t walk, to the nearest exit.  Nitrous Body Jewelry recommends grade 23 surgical titanium, known by its composition as “Ti6AL4VEL1" or the abbreviated, “G23Ti”. Recognized by the international standards organization in Switzerland and by the US equivalent, the ASTM, as well as by the Association of Professional Piercers (APP), as an approved medical grade material, G23 is used for medical devices such as pacemakers and heart valves, bone pins and plates, and other such replacement body parts. Its biocompatibility (hypo allergen) is internally respected and is approved by the FDA. There is no higher recommendation. It is not safe to choose titanium at face value. There is a lot of grade 1 titanium being sold for piercing jewelry these days, and there are some very dangerous assumptions about the internal use of this lower grade alloy. 

 

For many people, it is all about the available colors (called, “anodization”) of titanium jewelry that is most desired.  Raw titanium is dipped in an electrolyte solution and then bombarded with voltage. This creates an oxide layer of varying thickness, which determines the color.  Low voltage will produce shades of browns, dark blue and ice blue.  Medium voltage gives us yellows and lighter shades of purple and pink.   High voltage produces dark purple, bright blue, teal and shades of green. The coloring will fade in shade and intensity over time.

Just as G23 can be worlds apart from other grades in terms of biocompatibility, here, again, are some important distinctions to be aware of concerning anodization... 

 

Rule #2 - If you take nothing else from this article, remember this: the passive oxide film on G23 titanium is nearly three times thicker than that of commercial G1 titanium, and it is this oxide film on the titanium which gives the alloy its high corrosion-resistance.  To put this into our perspective, G23 has been proven to be suitable for both healed and primary piercings without detrimental effect, while G1 has been shown, according to accepted medical evidence, to cause permanent blackening of adjacent soft tissues.  The discoloration is attributed to the low hardness and low abrasion tolerance of the unalloyed material.  G23, on the other hand, causes neither discoloration, macrophages, or any sign of inflammation.  We at Nitrous would further recommend never using titanium with a matte (dull) finish, as this would suggest poor polishing and/or a roughened surface, thereby creating a low-abrasion tolerance. * Good quality black PVD can be found in both shiny and matte finishes. ... 

 

Rule #3 - If you take nothing else from this article, remember this:  G23 has almost twice the yield strength of G1 titanium, possesses about half the weight of niobium – which is considered to be a super light-weight element in its own right – and yet G23 is significantly harder -- not just in tensile strength, but in surface hardness as well.  G23 jewelry is especially desirable because it means the surface is nearly impossible to scratch, and will never flake its anodized or polished coat.  It is when the consumer accepts all titanium as if it were the same, that the differences in surface hardness become especially problematic.  In point, a good quality surgical steel (316L is implant grade and recommended for piercing jewelry) is far less likely to cause an undesirable reaction than a poor grade of titanium. 

 

Know the differences between G23 Titanium, which is the strongest titanium alloy (metal), Niobium, which is a pure element and a much softer material (which is why most of your anodized bead-capture rings are fashioned from the more pliable Niobium), and PVD, which stands for Physical Vapor Deposition.  PVD is a process whereby titanium body jewelry is coated with biocompatible titanium nitride (this is nickel-free) and then vaporized and ionically bonded to the surface in a vacuum chamber.  The integrity of the initial titanium is unaffected and the PVD coating of the surface becomes permanent.  Unfortunately, some disreputable or ignorant manufacturers and dealers are selling the lesser-quality G1 Titanium bonded over steel, and calling it PVD, or "Blackline". This is especially dangerous to initial piercings because the body fluids which will be viciously attacking the new jewelry can cause this coating to flake off inside the piercing canal, which in turn causes infection.  In many cases,  healing begins to take place over the flaking, and this creates an abscess -- and then you're really headed for trouble and some serious expense!  But it is important to recognize that wearing imitation PVD/Blackline in a well-healed piercing is still quite capable of causing serious health complications. 

 

Also worthy of remembering (that is, if you take nothing else from this article), is this:  G23 titanium, at about half the weight of steel, is recommended for facial piercings in particular because it creates far less “drag” on the delicate facial tissues.  And, ladies and gentlemen, if you don't currently worry about your face sagging, believe me, an age soon cometh when you will.

 

Biocompatibility, vivid color selections, strength/hardness in contrast to the lightness of weight -- all great reasons for choosing titanium for your piercings.  But make no mistake, the cheap titanium jewelry production in the Far East is flooding the western markets.  Please choose your material with care, because a care-less selection may bring about very heavy-duty consequences!

As most of our existing customers already know, NitrousBody.com works with overseas artists from many countries around the world: Stone Saddles from China, Steel and Titanium from the UK, Nickel-Free Gold from Scotland, Carved Organic pieces from hill tribes in Thailand... now we have a new artist from Bali, Indonesia, and we are very excited to offer his fabulous hand-carved designs. 

 

This artist is so talented! Check out these carvings he did for us. The first is made from Sono Wood and water buffalo bone and the next is made from water buffalo bone:

  

We get asked these types of questions all of the time; sometimes, especially around Christmas time by relatives who are largely unfamiliar with piercings, and also by people thinking of being pierced for the first time and don't want to be ignorant about the terminology.  We have included the most common piercings (we know there are many more that are less mainstream).  So here is a simple reference sheet for any who need it.

 

The Rook:  This ear cartilage piercing passes through the upper inner cartilage fold. AKA anti-helix piercing.  Minimum healing time: 3 to 6 months.  Appropriate Jewelry:

 

Style                                       Gauge            Size

 

Captive Bead Rings             18 to 16          1/4" to 5/8" 

Bent Barbells                         18 to 16          5/16" to 3/8"

Nostril Twists                         18 gauge (sometimes 20g)

Labrets                                   18 to 16          1/4” 

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Eyebrow:  Piercings anywhere along the ridge of the eyebrow. These are usually vertical but may be angled slightly.  Minimum healing time: 2 to 4 months.  Appropriate Jewelry:

 

Style                                        Gauge            Size

 

Captive Bead Rings             20 to 14          5/16" to 7/16" 

Straight Barbells                   18 to 14          5/16" to 7/16" 

Bent Barbells                         18 to 14          5/16" to 7/16"

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Nostril:  Usually done where the lower edge of the nostril curves upward and forward around the base of the nose. Personal preference and the aesthetic of each nose plays a big part in the placement of this piercing.  Minimum healing time: 3 to 6 months.  Appropriate Jewelry:

 

Style                                        Gauge            Size

 

Captive Bead Rings             20 to 14          1/4" to 1/2" 

Nose Bones                           20 to 16  

Nose Screws                         20 to 16 

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Navel or Belly Piercing :  A piercing typically done through the top rim of the navel but may be done anywhere there's a big enough flap of skin. This piercing is also conducive to multiple piercings. Minimum healing time: 4 to 8 months.  Appropriate Jewelry:

 

Style                                        Gauge            Size

 

Captive Bead Rings             16 to 10          3/8" to 1/2" 

Bent Barbells                         16 to 10          3/8" to 1/2" 

Circular Barbells                   16 to 10          1/2" 

Helix Barbells                        16 to 14          usually 1/2"

Corkscrew Barbells              14                    one-size

Bent Doorknockers               16 to 10          3/8" to 1/2" 

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Nipple (Female):  This piercing is typically done horizontally through the nipple).  Minimum healing time: 4 to 8 months.  Appropriate Jewelry:

 

Style                                        Gauge            Size

 

Captive Bead Rings             16 to 8            1/2" to 1" 

Circular Barbells                   16 to 10          1/2" to 1" 

Straight Barbells                   16 to 8  

Bent Barbells                         16 to 8 

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Nipple (Male):  Unlike the female nipple piercing, the male nipple piercing is typically done in the areola (the pigmented area around the nipple).  Minimum healing time: 4 to 8 months.  Appropriate Jewelry:

 

Style                                        Gauge            Size

 

Captive Bead Rings             16 to 8            1/2" to 1" 

Circular Barbells                   16 to 10          1/2" to 1" 

Straight Barbells                   16 to 8  

Bent Barbells                         16 to 8 

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Tragus:  The tragus is the small tab of tissue which projects over the opening of the ear canal. The piercing is usually placed in the natural fold where the tragus attaches to the side of the face.  Minimum healing time: 3 to 6 months.  Appropriate Jewelry:

 

Style                                        Gauge            Size

 

Captive Bead Rings             20 to 14          5/16" to 3/8" 

Nose Bones                           20 to 16  

Nose Screws                         20 to 16  

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Liprets and Labrets:

Liprets - are normally done through the lower lip just below the lip line; however, this piercing can also be done on the upper lip or off to the sides.

Labrets - are normally done through well below the lower lip and just above the chin crease. Also, for “Marilyn” style labret piercings, they are placed well above the upper lip and off to one side or the other. Minimum healing time: 2 to 4 months.  Appropriate Jewelry:

 

Style                                        Gauge            Size

 

Captive Bead Rings              20 to 10         3/8" to 1/2" 

Labrets                                   16 to 10          3/8" to 1/2" 

*For Marilyn’s, a nostril twist is sometimes preferred

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Septum:  This piercing passes through the outside edge of the nasal septum. Usually placed well forward and towards the tip of the nose. When properly placed, a ring will hang freely. When discreetness is required, the jewelry can be replaced with a septum retainer.  Minimum healing time: 4 to 8 weeks.  Appropriate Jewelry:

 

Style                                        Gauge            Size

 

Captive Bead Rings             20 to 10          1/4" to 5/8" 

Septum Retainers   

Septum Spikes   

Circular Barbells                   20 to 10          1/4" to 5/8" 

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Helix:  Piercings are placed through the outer rim of the ear cartilage.  Minimum healing time: 3 to 6 months.  Appropriate Jewelry:

 

Style                                        Gauge            Size

 

Captive Bead Rings             18 to 12          5/16" to 7/16"

Industrial Barbells                  14g                 Any desired length 

 

* Some like a “scaffold” aka “Industrial” piercing, which is actually two Helix piercings spaced (usually) one inch or more apart.  We recommend 14g and a length of 1 to 1-1/2”.